Monday, June 22, 2009

AK Final Update

I should point out that since my last update, I did not document the remaining steps required in building this.  Particularly, the hardening of the steel and attaching the barrel and the components together (the most difficult part in my opinion).  I used this as a guide and it should be pretty straight forward.

I guess I'm done with this.  After having it headspace checked, I bolted everything on with some screws and added some JB Weld to keep them from backing out.  The rails are also bolted on (three 6-32 screws each).  I ground the bolts as flat as I could so I could add the safety lever.  I did not use the short screws that came with the Tapco kit on the cross-bolt because I believe that a single 1.5" machine screw (trimmed of course) across the width of the reciever will hold better.  The same with the rear trunnion.    I finished the receiver with a coat of flat black Krylon.  I ordered a UTG m70 "Tactical" handguard from Centerfire systems.  I couldn't find any wooden ones anywhere, and plus I needed a weapon to tack on this box of tactical crap I've acquired over the year.

I fired 12-13 rounds of custom, light-loaded ammunition at thirty yards.  They weren't strong enough to cycle the action, which might be a good thing since I don't know if the bolt-carrier is gonna fly off the tracks and hit the me in the face.  I fired five more rounds of Wolf ammo from the hip into the hill, not aiming at anything in particular, and the carrier functioned good enough.  However, I did feel stinging gas hit my hand from where there wasn't a good seal in the gas valve.  It didn't bother me too much and I feel it is safe enough to shoot with light loads.  I could never find a front sight that had proper pin-hole spacing so I used a UTG Tri-Rail Barrel mount with lock-tite, and used the rear sight from an M-4.  It lined up perfectly with the AK-74 rear sight (which I had to dremmel the hell out of to fit).  Just looking down the sights, you can feel something is canted, but I can't tell which because the barrel is bent or retarded or something.

  • A complete semi-auto AK 47 built with Bulgarian and Yugoslav parts that did not explode.
  • Tools + ordering parts individually over a period of one year = more expensive than a commercially built AK.
  • Buy a complete parts kit (they're cheap now).
  • Accurate ENOUGH (didn't test the lead rounds in my good AK since I didn't want it to get it fouled up)
  • I don't feel like trying to fix the problems with this.

I hope this post formatted right.  I can't get this stupid editor to work right.  Note:  I will post a better picture with the mall-ninja gear added on in a later post.

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